The Negev desert is like the landscape of the moon. The mountain ranges are gray, almost without color. A million years ago it was covered by the sea, and even today you can sometimes find a shell encrusted with salt. There are camels, frogs, scorpions, and snakes.

The desert can hypnotize you. That is how I felt when I first saw Aisha, the Bedouin girl who suddenly appeared on her donkey. She must have come from one of the black goat-hair tents that we had passed earlier. I had seen women patiently weaving rugs stretched out on the ground there, while goats nibbled on sparse vegetation.

Aisha appeared out of nowhere. She was dark-skinned, with black lustrous eyes, and she rode her donkey side-saddle. She hummed a melody while the gold coins sewn into her kaftan jingled in time with the tune and the rhythm of donkey’s hooves. She was following an almost invisible trail of goat and sheep droppings, left by generations of animals. The trail led shepherds to water and grass.

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